HOW TO PLAY
1. Winning and Losing
To win the game of Wartide, you must eliminate all opponents, at which point you (and any team mates) win.
To eliminate an opponent, you must capture their home field, at which point the player is eliminated. Alternatively, if a player has no cards in their deck and have to draw a card from their deck, they will lose the game.
2. Card Types
The first card type is a unit card. These cards are easily identifiable by the stat line going down the left hand side of the card.
At the top of the card is the faction symbol, unit name, and unit type.
The top right corner shows the cost of the unit.
The Explosion icon shows how much damage the unit does when attacking
The Crosshair shows the units range, how far it can attack
The Arrows represents movement, how far the unit can move each turn
The Heart shows health, how much damage the unit can take
There is also the text box that may show any extra abilities the unit has, as well as the limit icon in the bottom right, which shows the maximum number that can be put into a deck.
Like unit cards, the top left has the card faction icon. There is then the card name and event type, and the top right has the cost of the card.
In event cards, below the faction icon is a lightning symbol, that shows it is an event card.
In the text box, it explains what the card does when it is played, then the card is placed in the discard pile.
The text box may also explain any special times or conditions for when the card can be played, such as Reaction or Capture
Equipment cards can be identified by the crate icon below the faction symbol.
Equipment cards attach to unit cards. They may add on to the units statistics, shown with a white stat and “+”.
They may also grant other abilities listed in the text box.
Equipment maybe played from hand on to any unit you control, anywhere on the battlefield.
Other equipment cards may grant additional attacks, as shown by range and damage together in black icons. Equipment attacks may be used in addition to the units regular attack, and may target the same, or different units.
When the unit is destroyed, the equipment stays on the field, and may be picked up again by a unit on the same field by paying the equip cost listed in the text box.
Field cards have the same basic setup as other cards in faction, cost, name, and type.
Field cards will often grant resources. These are added to your resources at the start of each turn.
If it is your starting field, it will gain any bonuses listed as Home Field. All other field cards played throughout the game are considered to be secondary fields. If your home field is captured, you lose the game.
If a field does not have a home field condition, it cannot be selected as the home field and can only be included in the main deck.
Cards that are face down and making up the battlefield are also considered to be fields, and can be targeted by cards targeting fields, however as face down cards they do not have any special effects.
3. Game Set Up
When you start your game, you should have a deck of 60 cards, and a home field, for a total of 61 cards. Keep your home field separate, and shuffle the rest of your deck.
From there, draw the top 8 cards from the top of your deck, without looking at them, and place them face down in a 3x3 grid with your home field as in the picture.
These face down cards (and your home field) are your fields, and can be targeted by any card targeting fields, or upgraded with field cards from your hand (See "4. Playing a turn")). You can tell who controls the field, as the gold arrow will be pointing towards it's controller.
Your opponent should do the same opposite you, ending with a set up that looks like this.
Then you each draw 7 cards to your hand. If you do not like some of the cards in your hand, you may perform a mulligan. This means, you may set aside any number of cards from your hand, and then draw from your deck one less than the number set aside. For example, if you don't want 3 of your initial hand, you may set them aside, and then draw 2 cards from your deck. You may do this any number of times, so long as you still have cards in your hand. Then shuffle all set aside cards back in to your deck.
Once both players have finished their mulligans, you are ready to start the game.
4. Playing a turn
At the start of each turn, gain resources according to your resource generators, and add them to your resources. Your resources do not reset between turns, so can save up as the game goes for big plays.
Any cards that have an effect at the start of your turn then occur.
Finally, draw a card from the top of your deck to your hand. (If you are playing first, you do not draw a card in your first turn)
You are now ready to continue the main stage of your turn.
In the main phase, you may play cards, or activate units in any combination or and any order. You can play as many cards as you can affor until you are out of resources or run out of cards in your hand to play.
To play a unit from your hand, pay the cost listed in the top right corner, and then play the card to it’s relevant area.
Event cards are played by showing them to your opponent and then acting out what is said on the card. Then place the card in your discard pile.
Units are played anywhere on your furthest back row.
Equipment cards are played from your hand. When played, they may be instantly equipped to any unit you control, or played unequipped to your furthest back row.
Field cards are played on to any field of that you control, as described in the card type section. When you play a field card, the field it is played on is moved to your hand.
To activate a unit, inform your opponent you are activating the unit. It may then move up to it's movement stat. Once it's movement is complete, you may then attack any unit within it's range, and deal the unit's damage stat to that unit.
Once you have played all the cards and activated all the units you want, you then move to the end step.
During the end step, any effects that occur at the end of turn occur. Then, any units on fields they do not control, without any enemies on the same field (Contesting the field), and adjacent to a field under their control, captures that field. This means the field card is sent to it's owners discard pile, and the top card of the unit's controller's deck is placed face down on the field that has been captured. It is now considered under control of it's new player.
5. Other Rules and Special Scenarios
All distances are measured in straight lines, and never in diagonals. Units may move or fire around corners, but never measured diagonally across fields.
If a card destroys a field, remove the field and all cards on it and place them in their owner’s discard piles. Leave the space the field was on empty. No units may move on to or through this space.
No Paths Available
If fields are destroyed in such a way that there is no longer a direct path between the home fields of both players, the person who destroyed the field moves all fields outside of their opponent’s home row one field closer to their opponent’s home row, if there's an empty field space in front of them. Repeat this until there is a path between the two home fields.
If a card has react in it's effect area, it may be played in your opponent’s turn. When your opponent performs an action (Playing a card, moving a unit, targeting an attack, attacking an opponent, or capturing a field) you may play your card in response. If you do, the react card you play takes place immediately prior to your opponent’s announced action.
For example, if your opponent attacks one of your units, in response you can play a card that moves that unit to a different field out of range of the attack, which will happen immediately prior to the attack, keeping your unit safe. However, your opponent could also then play their own event to move their unit to keep your unit in range, if they have the card in hand and the resources to play it they may, and the attack would continue.